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Rippetoe, Robert Neil
Discussion id : 160-217
most recent 4 FEB HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 4 FEB
* This post deleted by user *
Reply #1 of 0 posted 4 FEB by Robert Neil Rippetoe
Sure,

Hi Jennie!

Please feel free to text or or call.

Hey to George!

I'm on my way to gym now but have about half an hour on my way.

(760) 567-9359
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Discussion id : 160-216
most recent 4 FEB HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 4 FEB by dboranch
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Discussion id : 119-811
most recent 15 JAN 20 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 14 JAN 20 by raingreen
Hi Robert,

I have a 'waterless' (no water once-established) garden in Irwindale (east of L. A.) where I am experimenting with roses. Plants include Mrs. B. R. Cant, Graham Thomas, Old Blush, Le Vesuve, Evelyn, Crown Princess Margareta, Wenlock, Mme. Alfred Carriere, Marie van Houtte. The last 3 haven't been tested yet, being newly planted in 2019.

Had a question, if you have the time. The 'waterless' roses were pruned upon the first soaking rain in late November except for Old Blush. Old Blush is producing a myriad of flowers, the others have not bloomed yet, and the two David Austins Graham Thomas and Evelyn (Crown Princess Margareta already removed due to unnattractive foliage in late summer) show 'blindness'. Evelyn is partially blind, with a ruff of foliage on its stems and normal shoots at the tips, and Graham Thomas shows entirely bunched up foliage as of January 12.

It looks like there is a fairly restricted range of roses that can adapt to the harsh conditions. In my opinion, Mrs. B. R. Cant looks like the most ornamental variety, dropping its leaves in summer to leave an attractive branch structure, and leafing out normally upon the rains. No flowers yet. Old Blush doesn't look as 'clean', keeping browned leaves thru summer.

My selection criteria for the roses were desiccation tolerance, heat tolerance and the ability to grow in winter. IMO Mrs B R Cant shows the best combo of these characteristics, while remaining ornamental. It's only been through one 'waterless' year, however. Thank you for your HMF posts on heat tolerance.

Can you recommend roses that show a pronounced tendency towards winter growth (thereby avoiding blind shoots) and also sunscald resistance/heat tolerance? What about... Sutter's Gold? Abraham Darby? Mary Rose?? Bewitched?? Bow Bells??? Iceberg?? 'Souvenir de la malmaison' gets too much mildew. 'Mutabilis' may be a little too susceptible to sunscald, based on what I've seen in other gardens. 'Safrano' may not be sunscald resistant and may be too mildew susceptible (???). All of the varieties in the first paragraph are sunscald resistant for me, exc/ for Marie van Houtte who hasn't been through a summer yet.

Thanks!!! Nate
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Reply #1 of 2 posted 14 JAN 20 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
Nate, in general old own root Teas and Chinas seem to be most resilient.

There was a study done by the Earthkind group in TX which explained their process for establishment and evaluation you might find useful.

I know Gaye Hammond was/is? involved with that program.

In response to your request, 'Mutabilis' and 'Duchess de Brabant', 'Le vesuve', 'White Pet', 'Pink Pet', 'Ducher' 'Rosy Morn', come immediately to mind but there are others. Look at the Antique Rose Emporium catalog.

Yes, 'Mrs. B.R. Cant' is among the best.

'Faith Whittesey' is a newer creation you might seek out. It's a good rose. I've made may teas and chinas but as there is no commercial interest I just have them here for my own enjoyment.

In my experience Austin types seem to have a high water requirement to really thrive and be happy.

My own 'Miracle on the Hudson' is a pretty tough customer and grows best own-root.

Material budded to fortuniana is likely to give best results in your climate should you choose to go that route and you can find what you are looking for.


FYI I would only prune the Teas and Chinas lightly, IF AT ALL, and then just to shape.

They don't like to be cut and will sunburn if pruned hard.

They don't like it or need it.


Best wishes, Robert
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Reply #2 of 2 posted 15 JAN 20 by raingreen
Thanks Robert!!!!! Nate
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Discussion id : 110-917
most recent 23 MAY 18 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 23 MAY 18 by JasonSims1984
Robert, I have been fascinated reading and following your work with Lila Banks and its impressive dynasty of progeny. Many of which are quite colorful and beautiful. I love lavender. It's my favorite color, so I have been keeping tabs on everyone's projects breeding for lavender for quite a while now.

You mentioned to me in another thread that you have been working with bracteata a lot. Clinophylla too. I am very interested in those species because of their other-than-china rebloom genetics.

I want to work on three species in particular: rugosa, bracteata, and roxburghii. Clinophylla is very tender but I could find a way to use it too.

I was wondering if you had some advice and ideas, particularly regarding bracteata. I have read from many sources that it's challenging to use. Then I've also heard that it's reasonably pollen fertile.

I know that Ralph Moore was extremely proud of Muriel because it took him forever to make that cross take. I also know that it produced a lot of nice things.

I don't really know where to get it. I do know where to find Happenstance, one of the miniature sports of Mermaid, though. I have bracteata and Pink Surprise, a rugosa x bracteata cross. I might try Little Gray Pearl, as Muriel is a parent of it.

I was wondering though if you had any bract seedlings that have been particularly useful. I would love to trade for daylily species, or historic Iris, or even some rugosas. Whatever you'd like. An IOU for stuff I end up working on, whatever you like. Even if you just have bract crosses that weren't winners that you want to toss.

I've got stapeliads, cacti, succulents, orchids, lots of stuff. I bet I have something you'd like. Let me know.

Thanks!
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Reply #1 of 1 posted 23 MAY 18 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
Jason,

This is a huge topic. I'll try to hone in on a few points and we can go from there. I'm assuming your relatively young from your screen name. I can't iterate enough the importance of starting young with some of these endeavors. They literally take decades,

If you had contacted me several years ago when I still had access to Viru's clinophylla/bracteata cross you might have been ahead of the game. They seemed to lean heavily toward clinophylla in terms of phenotype but seemingly vastly more fertile that bracteata itself,

Bracteata is a very distinctive species, quite aggressive in mild climates. A number of hybridizers have made breakthroughs in terms in getting first generation hybrids but they are relatively few and far between compared to most species. I tried using the species early on but quickly came to the realization that it's much easier to move forward building on the work of others. You may have more luck with it. I'd use it differently were I to go back and work with it again.

(Ralph Moore made repeated attempts with it for many years and only got, 'Muriel'.)

Viru shared with me some time ago that 'Pink Surprise' can offer fertility as pollen parent. That might be a place to start since you have it already. It's a beautiful rose but too large for most gardens and gardeners.

Finding a reliable seed parent that works in your climate, preferably with bracteata genetics is paramount. I have many.

Just remember, integrating no species is a panacea. We get the good with the bad and the ugly.

Send me a private message and we can go from there.

Best wishes, Robert
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