HELPMEFIND PLANTS COMMERCIAL NON-COMMERCIAL RESOURCES EVENTS PEOPLE RATINGS
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My three-year-old Perfume Delight is the only bush out of 30 this summer to have a health issue -- mildew, perhaps. Also in my Zone 19 the blooms just can't handle the heat, burning up in a day. So gorgeous then so tragic.
CA rose girl
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Thanks for sharing your expereince with us!
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In Los Angeles this rose has made a big come back in the last 10 years and I see big HEALTHY bushes of it everywhere. At the USC medical school campus it's a hedge. The magnifiScent fragrance/deep rich pink combo are only matched by Pink Peace in my book. Paul McCartney has bad form here but it's color and scent are great.
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My Love Potion is in Southern California, 12 miles inland and endures heat and wind. It is three years old, planted bare root. It is super-hardy, enormous (4 feet wide, 5 feet tall), prolific bloomer, aromatic, and gorgeous. The best bush out of my 30 roses.
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Are there any specific instructions on tieing climbers?
Ca rose girl
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#1 of 5 posted
15 AUG 07 by
 Cass
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Hi, Ca rose girl,
I have lots of ways to tie climbers, and 'Fourth of July' in particular. It is a thorny thug that will saw through twine. I'd like to know how you are training it, what kind of structure you are tying onto, and how long the canes are. Also, take a look at the EZINE article on climbers:
http://www.helpmefind.com/rose/ezine.php?publicationID=887&js=0
Standard climbers can be tied with jute twine. It's a perfect material - - a nice muted tone that disappears in the garden, a natural material that doesn't reflect or otherwise announce itself, biodegradable, and inexpensive. The usual attachment is a sort of figure-8 with the cane through one loop and the structure through the other. No need to cinch it up too tight. Leave just a bit of play. Tie with a bow at first until the entire climber is tied, as you may have to retie a cane or two at first. Then go back and tie perfect knots and trim off all excess. Neatness counts.
Some climbers are very thorny and will saw through twine. For them, I reserve my favorite tie material that I have used for 8 years. It is green coated stranded copper wire. The gauge of the wire is 16, I think, but you will have to check in the electrical supply section of the hardware store. You want a dark forest green. Yes, it is expensive. No, despite dire warnings it does not cause canker and galls, assuming you tie it correctly in a figure-8 as described above: not too tight, just right. And it is reusable, retieable, and a very acceptable matte dark green. Start with a piece about 10 inches long for your first tie and adjust the length of each attachment as you gain experience.
When to tie? Constantly, it seems. Train new canes soon after they grow, or they may become too stiff to move into the position you wish. Retie each winter when you prune to remove old unproductive canes - usually the oldest canes after they have produced laterals that bloomed for a year or two. Retie to readjust the canes on your structure, to rebalance for new growth. In practice, I often retie twice a year: in the fall, to tie the canes that grew over the the new season, and in the late winter after I've pruned the climber for the season.
That's how to tie a climber. How to train is a different issue. Training is the manner in which the canes are bent, pruned, removed, and adjusted on the structure. Training is specific to the variety of rose and to the structure. Those darned climbers grow in a dozen different ways.
Let's hear about your 'Fourth of July.'
Cass
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Hi Cass,
You are so helpful! I have two Fourth of July's newly planted on either side of a wrought iron 7' high by 1' wide arbor. The plants are about 4 1/2' tall. I could tell right away that what might have been straight-forward -- tying up the plants -- must be handled properly. And you are right; why bother with a beautiful plant and have an ugly tie? And I can already see where training comes into play. Nice tip about the electrical wire.
So how far back do you prune in winter? Treat it just like another rose and trim all the way back?
I'll check out the article, too.
Many thanks! CA rose girl
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#3 of 5 posted
16 AUG 07 by
Cass
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Hi, CA rose.
Let's be even more specific because "arbor" can ambiguous. An arbor should be a 3 dimensional structure you walk through or sit under, like you see around a gate. If that is what you have, I'm missing the third measurement. Think of it as two ladders with a ladder over the top. The distance between the two vertical ladders is important. If your arbor is 1 foot deep, you will have to train in a very specific way! Does your arbor have a top? I need a better visual.
Some people call a trellis an arbor. That's a piece of lattice or other flat work that is mounted on a wall or fence.
Let's talk about winter pruning after I'm clear about your arbor. Fourth of July produces 8 foot canes in my climate. What Sunset Zone are you in?
To answer very generally, climbers are roses with long basal canes. When those canes are trained somewhat horizontally, they will produce flowering lateral canes. If we don't train them horizontally, they bloom at the top, 12 feet up in the sky. I call the long basal canes climbing canes. Sometimes a climbing cane consists of a basal that has been cut off to a lateral that has then taken off and grown very long itself, producing its own laterals.
When we prune climbers, we do not generally shorten climbing canes. We prune the flowering laterals only, and we prune them fairly hard - - down to 3 or 5 bud eyes up from the climbing cane. I'll take a picture later today, so you can see this.
After a year or sometimes two, depending on your climate and the climber, a basal cane is used up, old and tired. The climber can become congested with too many basals. That is the time to prune off a climbing cane in favor of other new, younger wood.
It's an ongoing, multi-year project. It sounds like you have a lot of rose on not much structure. My Fourth of July is easily 8 feet wide and 6 feet high. But my rose is trained as an espalier. Tell me more about your arbor.
Cass
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Hi, Cass. Thank you for so much good information. My arbor is an arch; it has a 4' spread from side to side x 7' high x 1' wide and serves as an entryway through a gate. The uppermost point actually swoops up to 8-9' high. I am in the heat of L.A. in Zone 19. One reason I chose Fourth of July is for its size; not too big, not too small so as to fit this arbor. It is interesting reading your description of climbers, as certainly my arbor does not allow for horizontal basal canes. I can see how a climber would work as an espalier on a wall, but how on earth to train laterals up such a narrow arbor? So you actually cut a climber (the laterals) all the way back each year? As you can guess I have the basal canes tied upright, as well.
Great rose articles you referred me to. Thank you so much! Books should be titled, "The Exciting and Scary New World of Climbing Roses."
Happy gardening, CA rose girl
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#5 of 5 posted
17 AUG 07 by
Cass
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Happy gardening to you too, CA rose girl. Take a look at Weeks Roses page on Fourth of July. Best you can hope is to become a disciplinarian with this rose and to have planted it a decent distance from the base of the structure so that you can lean the canes in toward the arch. Young roses aren't very impressive, but eventually, all those thorny canes growing out of the base will take quite a lot of space. It wouldn't hurt to start with two feet of space between the base of the arch and the rose.
Cass
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Initial post
25 FEB 04 by
Anonymous-797
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Although this rose is very resistant to mildew, it is quite susceptible to blackspot in my Pennsylvania garden. If you live in a humid area, you may want to pick another climbing rose such as Autumn Sunset, New Dawn or Westerland.
Other positives: Completely cane hardy in my garden. Great color impact.
Other negatives: Slow to establish. Did not climb for the first two years.
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"First year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they leap"
CA rose girl
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