HELPMEFIND PLANTS COMMERCIAL NON-COMMERCIAL RESOURCES EVENTS PEOPLE RATINGS
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Initial post
30 APR 16 by
Mikeb
I couldn't find much about "Lasting Love" weather zone. How hardy this rose is? I see most comments from people in SO CA and TX, but does anyone grow it in the north- east?
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Considering each grandparent line is a "Peace type", probably similar to Peace.
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I am in zone 5a, was about to order this rose since it has dark green & glossy foliage (best for alkaline clay), the hardiness is good, but this rose is sold as own-root in alkaline region (California), and won't do well for acidic soil. This review is from Dave's Garden, Wisconsin is in zone 5a: On Dec 21, 2010, tgwWhale from Casco, WI wrote:
I had a Lasting Love for about two years. i didn't like it for two reasons. First, it was advertised when I bought it as a dark red rose, and it wasn't; the photos that appear in this web page are accurate in portraying the color. Second, the growth habit was poor. The stems were too short for good cut flower use, the flowers did not as a whole have good form, and often the flowers "balled up" and did not open. I culled it after two years." tgwWhale from Casco, WI
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#3 of 4 posted
17 OCT 17 by
Prosopis
I have carefully followed your suggestions on overwintering your roses on another forum; should like to ask what you consider to be YOUR hardiest fragrant red roses? I also live in a nominal 5a in Ithaca, NY outside the lake effect zone, in a microclimate with unexpected spring freezes that damage and kill young growth, especially mulched canes making vigorous new growth.
Plus, some of the own-root stock I have received from various vendors have been of mixed quality, some of the their certainly of much higher vigor than others. The Mother plants must be of declining vigor, or else they are supplying sickly liners. Both Vintage Roses and High Country have done this: some fine mixed in with weaklings that have never put on good growth. Logees also has this practice, with other species. So, one cannot truly say that they are supplying bad stock, but there is a let down, since one is paying about $15 plus S&H for rather small plants.
Madame Louise Laperriere is one I received from Vintage Roses and I thank them for stocking hard to find varieties, like Pink Radiance, another relatively rare one, a healthy liner. But the former never even began to grow cossetted indoors and out. I have spent my life as a NASA-CELSS researcher, and should have learned a thing or two about growing plants in controlled environments by now, one hopes. SO, not from the lack of care. Perhaps, some roses do better grafted.
Roses Unlimited sends only perfect plants perfectly packed, in my limited experience with them, but they have cut back on the older roses I love.
I have only purchased from Heirloom Roses when they were in their early stages, in Oregon, picking up the plants. The sizes and prices both have become too large for cross country shipment and for my wallet. Good selections for all the older classes.
Should love some advice on some of the better RED and fragrant roses that MIGHT survive out of doors in Zone 5a. Graham Stuart Thomas survived for many years, as a hardy perennial, coming back each year from the soil level and putting out a few flowers; very quaint and sweet, in its determination! Alec's Red, and Dickson's Red, Gruss an Teplitz, and a misnamed Griffith Buck grew well for some years before a hard winter took them out, despite heavy, careful protection. My fault for choosing tender types, and hence, need for better advice!
I have a raised bed 28 inches above the soil, composed of rotten oak, maple, leaves, ditto wheatstraw, some milled peat moss, some Promix, a little sterilized soil, all turned over until it feels good to my hands, slightly acidic, slightly shaded in the late afternoon, but sun again in evening. Excellent drainage assured. No nutritional issues that are noticeable, at least to me. May exist unbeknownst.
Try to have relatively lower leaf nitrogen levels, a practice we attempt on many fruit crops, and increase potassium levels. Watch how phosphate moves with the various phosphate species. As far as we can. Leaf color changes. And the various species of nitrogen and polyamines, as far as we can gauge their uptake by eye.
Alba semi-plena does very well, rude good health. Would love more and Gallica City of Brussels, which cannot find anywhere. Rugosas did well until an insect whose name I was told killed them all, along with a rosarian friend's wall of rugosas.
Thank you kindly.
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Have you consulted Der Rosenmeister, who must be very near you? Also, I understand the display gardens at Cornell are of great interest.
I am in Utica, a bit north and East of you, in a frost pocket beside the Mohawk River. For HTs I have had best results with the Tantau genetics. 'Fragrant Cloud', reliably grows back, as does its' descendent 'Velvet Fragrance'. Matthias Tantau, Jr. sold the nursery to Hans Jurgen Evers in 1985, I believe, and Hans has been succeeded by his son, Christian Evers. Mr. Evers, Sr. produced a red rose named 'Ascott', which has been receiving rave reviews on the gardenweb. I have not grown it, but you might want to research it.
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Initial post
5 MAY 16 by
Mikeb
What is Sheila's Perfume official Zone?
Here, on HMF its defined as Zone 6b. On other websites it is Zone 5. Can someone reveal the real Zone?
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#1 of 9 posted
5 MAY 16 by
Jay-Jay
My experience with this rose would also say 6b. Normal winters in my 6b climate it survives without freeze-back. But in a bit harsher winter, she almost didn't survive and froze back to ground level.
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#2 of 9 posted
6 MAY 16 by
Mikeb
Thank you Jay, It is a wonderful rose with so many qualities, but last time it died in my Hudson Valley garden (Zone 6). Its hard to know precisely the reason, but I suspect the winter cold. I considered giving Sheila's another chance, but if its designed for warmer climates, I will not repeat it. Different websites provide conflicting information about the "official" zone.
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#3 of 9 posted
6 MAY 16 by
Jay-Jay
(Too) late gifts of Nitrogen-rich fertilizers can cause freeze-back too. Over here in June/first half of July is the last gift of fertilizer, with extra Potassium to let the canes and hips ripen.
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Sheila's perfume is pictured by Digger (Dave & Deb Boyd) in zone 5a as GRAFTED on Dr. Huey. However, someone with Sheila's Perfume as own-root reported it didn't survive zone 5b winter.
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The ratings show that she doesn't like heat that much either. Does anybody grow this one in heat?
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Sheila's perfume has glossy & dark-green foliage and vigorous in alkaline clay for California folks, even in 90s and 100s temp.. It did well for Dave & Deb Boyd in zone 5a with only 12" of rain & alkaline soil. KBW in Pakistan grows it in his high-heat climate (up to 113 F).
Heat and sun is not the issue, but a higher pH moisture-retentive clay high in magnesium is best for glossy & dark-green foliage. Roses like Sheila's perfume do well for dry & hot California climate, but will blackspot in regions with more acidic rain. Sheila's perfume is VERY THORNY. My experience with thorny roses (such as Rugosa) is they can handle drought but need well-drained soil.
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Thanks Straw! It doesn't sound like this one would be happy with my soil.
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Lavender: Sheila's perfume is a vigorous rose, it might work for your hot & dry climate. To be healthy, there are 2 criteria: 1) Vigorous & big root-system, like those that get 6 feet tall .. Lagerfeld and Sheila's perfume are in this category.
2) Roots produce less acid, so leaves don't become acidic, to prevent fungal infection (mildew, rust, and blackspot) in wet weather. The problem with roots producing less acid? Roots can't feed itself, roots can't break down the hard-mineral in soil, so the rose can't produce bloom via acid-phosphatase (the secretion of acid to utilize phosphorus in soil). The solution is to douse the roots in SOLUBLE fertilizer, which needs to be done constantly in sandy/loamy ... that leaches out quickly.
But Sheila's Perfume is black-spot prone, means roots produce plenty of acid and blooms easily, thus IS NOT A PROBLEM FOR HOT & DRY CLIMATE, or alkaline clay like mine.
With own-roots, there are 2 ways to avoid disappointment: 1) If it's vigorous enough to have deep root to withstand drought, heat, and cold 2) if it's bred in the same soil and climate as the grower. Dr.Huey-rootstock was bred in California solves that problem, but with own-roots, it's much harder to find roses which were bred in similar soil and climate.
For own-roots, it's safer to go by whoever with SAME soil and climate's experience, rather than by the look alone. For that reason, I canceled pretty Louis Clements, and asked RU nursery for Sheila's perfume or Sutter's Gold. Louis Clements (bred in rainy & cool Oregon) died on a few California folks, but Sheila's perfume and Sutter's Gold can hand hot & dry. My summer is hotter than my 3 sisters in California, and Louis Clements most likely die in my summer heat, and in my extreme cold winter -20 F below zero. It's interesting that KBW from hot Pakistan (up to 113 F) and I have the same favorite roses ... roses that can survive extreme hot & dry have a better chance of surviving extreme cold winter.
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Excellent tips, thank you!
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Initial post
12 APR 09 by
jmac
Please check the growing zones for Mr. Lincoln. I'm sure this rose tolerates zones that are colder than 7b -10b (the numbers currently shown on this website). Other websites are showing the growing zones for Mr. Lincoln as 5-9, 4-9 or 3-9! I've seen it growing successfully in zone 5. Thanks!
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#1 of 1 posted
16 MAY 09 by
Mikeb
I saw Mr. Lincoln classified for zone 7a as well. That may be a mistake. I grow it in zone 6a and this winter, with unusually low temperatures, it suffered much dieback. I am convinced that in warmer zones it does much better. Zone 7a may be a stretch, but I wouldn't recommend it for zone 5.
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