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Questions, Answers and Comments by Category
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I may have posted this before, but I'm not sure.
I used to get a rose fertilizer from Pixie Treasures that Laurie Chaffin mixed herself. I stocked up when she was closing things down, but am running out. I know it was a blend of three ingredients, including blood meal and bone meal, but I don't know the third ingredient nor the proportions thereof, as the label has long since "bit the dust". (I know, I should have gotten the information off before that happened . . . )
I really like this fertilizer, consider it much better than chemical types. Does anyone know what the mix was?
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I have a few questions about fertilizing roses: There is a timed-release “pill” for fertilizing plants (including roses), which it says works for “up to 2 years”. However, I’ve read in this forum that fertilizing should be stopped in autumn to give roses time to “harden off” for winter. I assume the fertilizer pill keeps fertilizing through the winter, since it works for up to 2 years. Is this bad? Or, is hardening off for winter less of an issue in zone 9, where I live? This pill is 20-10-5. Is this a good balance of nutrients for roses? I want to use this fertilizer pill if possible, because it takes a tremendous amount of time to sprinkle granular fertilizer around all my roses every month – but I want to make sure first that the pill is good for my roses.
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#1 of 2 posted
14 JUL 07 by
Wendy C
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In zone 9, winter generally isn't an issue. The feeder sticks, pills are okay, but I wouldn't consider them a once and done thing for two years.
They provide a steady supply of food, but during bloom season it isn't enough to sustain all the growth. A nice triple 16 lawn food or any balanced flower food would span the gap.
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#2 of 2 posted
14 JUL 07 by
 Cass
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Hi, Carolyn,
What's truly best for your roses depends on your garden soils. Wendy is absolutely right: you don't need to worry about hardening your roses for winter in Zone 9.
Agriform tablets include time-release components that won't release too much fertilizer over winter (we hope). As for the estimate of up to two years, I take that will a grain of salt. There are three sizes available. The warmer the soils and the more they are watered, the faster the fertilizers will be released. That's one of the biggest problems with time-release fertilizers: we can't be sure when they're used up without testing the soil, nor can we control the rate of release. For example when the weather is brutally hot in late June and July, roses can take a little snooze. But the fertilizers will be released at the maximal rate at that time - - good for lawns, not good for roses.
If the choice is...I do nothing because I have so little available time...or I use the Agriform tablets, I'd still say use the tablets.
I am firmly contrarian on rose fertilizing. I prefer a product that can be applied once a year (at spring pruning time) and is effective for 6 to 9 months. I consider the nitrogen content of the tablets too high. Depending on the maturity of your garden soils and your location, you might not need potassium or phosporus at all - - or your soils might need greater proportions of both. If your county extension provides free soils tests, that's a service that will give you a lot of information about how to fertilize your roses.
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Initial post
9 FEB 07 by
Tom
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What kind of fertilizer should I use for Patiohit roses?
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#1 of 2 posted
10 FEB 07 by
Wendy C
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My roses tend to like a well balanced food, 20-20-20. Honestly all roses just like to be fed, so it doesn't matter so much what you feed them, so long as you feed them.
Potted roses require watching, liquid food tends to get washed out with watering. Granules can build up.
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Patio Hit roses are classified as miniature roses, so use whatever fertilizer you choose at half strength. Water your roses well the day before you feed them to avoid fertilizer burn.
Smiles,
Lyn
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I'm relatively new to growing roses, and so far the only fertilizing/feeding I've done is with an organic granular Rose & Flower Food. I've been reading about other rose gardeners using various other substances such as alfalfa, blood meal, bone meal, epsom salts, fish emulsion or meal, iron, manure, seaweed, etc. My questions about this are: 1) What are the specific benefits of each of these substances for roses? 2) If a gardener doesn't choose to use all of them, which are the most important ones to use? Thanks for your information and advice. I'd like to improve the appearance and vigor of my roses, as they tend to be less floriferous and more sparsely foliaged than some others I see (although they look reasonably healthy otherwise, are usually free from disease).
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There are a lot of right ways to grow roses. I have been told that roses are "heavy feeders", but over time, in my own garden, I have found that it varies by plant. I have some roses that I feed every other time I feed roses. There are others that seem to need more iron. In my opinion, most of what you feed your roses depends upon your soil and what nutrients seem to help the plants have more vigor. For example, I never used epsom salts in southern California because the soil was already alkaline, but there are people who grow roses down there who will tell you that it's absolutely necessary to use epsom salts to get better basal breaks on budded roses. I can't say they are right or wrong, because I know only about what worked in my garden. Mr. Ralph Moore has said whenever asked questions of this nature to remember that "roses can't read". In other words, experimenting with what works in your own garden is the best way to find out what works for you. Rule of thumb is that organics take longer to break down and have the nutrients available to the rose for food. I don't buy special food for roses, but have found that some plant foods seem to work better for me. A very good practice is to water your roses very well the day before you feed your plants. Roses have their feeder roots near the surface. If you have watered the roses well, there is much less chance of burning the roots with anything you use to feed them. If you do a search of the Q & A Forum archives, you may find more specific answers to your question. Smiles, Lyn, helpmefind.com |
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#2 of 2 posted
5 NOV 06 by
Wendy C
Lyn is very correct, there are many 'right' ways to grow roses. What I would suggest if you are new is feed them a well balanced flower food. Such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 or as close to a balance as you can find. Follow the directions on the package. Tomato food is good for roses too. I've had good luck with alfalfa pellets as a slow release feed. The roses seem to love it, just make sure it doesn't contain salt, sugar or molasses which for animals not gardens. I put down two cups for each bush around the root zone. Keep it away from the canes as it can burn them. I put down alfalfa pellets in the Fall they break down over the Winter then feed the roses in the Spring Epsom salt has magnesium which the roses like and you would use one quarter cup per bush around the edge of the bush per month.. DURING the growing season.. it's too late for that now. You need to be careful with manures. If they aren't fully decomposed (the less they stink the more decomposed they are) manures can burn feeder roots. In addition one of my dogs(and others I've heard of) like chicken/turkey manure. This dog has dug up roses to get the manure. Make sure it is well aged and don't get it too close to the canes as it can burn them. Don't get so caught up in doing it 'right' that the roses become a burden rather than a joy. Roses are much hardier than some give them credit for. Best of luck |
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