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'75129-2' rose Reviews & Comments
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I would call Gold Medal a great "base" or "starter" rose. Very disease resistant, vigorous, blooms a lot, blooms hold well though they do wash out at the end. If I were going to recommend a yellow rose to someone just getting started growing roses, Gold Medal is what I would recommend.
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#1 of 2 posted
8 FEB 19 by
 goncmg
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Liking the terms "base" and "starter" rose. And I agree with everything you wrote here!
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I have a first year, own root Gold Medal (Chicagoland Zone 5b) that has been growing and blooming quite well. But my Gold Medal recently acquired a mild case of blackspot, despite regular spraying of fungicide. Given that I have about 170 newly planted roses this year, and only 3 have any blackspot (Gold Medal being one of the three), I cannot say that Gold Medal is/has been disease resistant for me. It's close neighbors - Ring of Fire, Dublin and Chrysler Imperial are all disease free. Also, we have had hot dry weather (at times quite humid but dry nevertheless) all summer so it's a mystery how Gold Medal acquired blackspot. I have pulled all bottom leaves and am spraying at shorter intervals. Hopefully I've nipped it in the bud (no pun intended!).
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Initial post
25 FEB 04 by
Anonymous-797
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What type of Soil it ( Gold Medal Rose)needs, how many hours of sun, direct or indirect, how offten should be wotered, is OK to use the spray prevent parasites for that rose?.
Thanks
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#1 of 4 posted
25 FEB 04 by
Unregistered Guest
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I have Gold Medal in the same soil as my other roses (Lorraine Lee, Iceberg, Double Delight and Maria Callas) which followed what the rose books all say, particularly mulch and fertilser with a good quality soil and some potting mix for roses added together as the base. They all get full morning sun for a min of 5-6 hrs in winter and more in summer. I have not sprayed Gold Medal, but use the method of applying either fish emulsion or seaweed fertilizer sprayed over all the rose, and pick off any leaf that has black spot by hand. Works OK.
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I planted my Gold Medal in heavy clay (well known to Georgia, USA gardeners) and it has been flowering abundantly since April and is still full of flowers at the moment (September). There has not been a single week that there has not been at least one rose on the bush, and it normally has at least 10 or more roses at a time. I created a new flower bed in winter where I used to have lawn, by mulching the area heavily about 4 months before planting my roses. I did not till or amend the soil at all. Then in MarchI planted the roses right in the clay. They get about 8 hours of sun and I fertilize regularly with a mixture of bone meal, blood meal, cottonseed meal and Epsom Salt. From my experience I would say this rose is remarkable for doing very well in poor soil, and I'm just a novice gardener. My tree Peace rose is doing just as well with the same conditions. I have not noticed aphids or other pests on Gold Medal but have had a bit of trouble with black spot. I water only about every second week if it does not rain.
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Thank you, I also have heavy alkaline clay.
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I propagate, grow and sell many varieties of plants to lanscapers and Garden Centers around Albany, NY, I also sell roses for Yonder Farms in Albany, NY. Gold Medal is one of the roses we sell. In spring we fertilize with a broad spectrum granular fertilizer followed at two week intervals by a dose of liquid fertilizer. It has been determined that after two weeks the fertilizer is washed from the soil and must be replaced. At Yonder Garden we do one of two things when we are preparing to plant an area.
#1) Sometimes we have an extremely hard and poor soil to deal with. We use compost and mulch aplied to the surface to a depth at least a foot (often this is done in fall). The following spring when we dig the once hard soil is much easier to work. We plant the rose in a volcano of soil within the mulch. We regularly fertilize the mulch which decomposes through the actions of worms (who are tilling it into the hardpan dirt below), fungi (who with myrchorizae can provide nutrients to the roses in a symbiotic relationship) and bacterial (composting). After several years in which we have to recover the volcano of soil each year as it gradually apears above the mulch line, The plant will have sunk down into its new location (the old hardpan surface).
#2) The other alternative is to till into the soil compost, manure and raw amendments (for bacteria). The important thing is to remember to amend beds not holes. I like to amend beds that are several feet deep by 10 or 15 feet wide. If you have grown tomatoes you already no how to do this. We allow at least 4 weeks for nutrient stabilization but the best is to amend in fall and plant in spring.
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I have two of these in my garden and for me they are proven performers. In cooler temps they are a rich medium yellow. In the summer, they are yellow with a bright tangerine rim on the petals. In all temps they eventually fade to a cream. Interestingly enough, last summer I was ill and didn't deadhead after a flush and the spent blooms eventually got a greenish tint to them. Also, this rose basically does not drop it's petals.....at all. They will stay on the bush until they are ready for a dried flower arragngement (this is how I discovered they will turn green).
My bush got to about 6 ft tall and 3 ft wide in it's first year. Foliage is a medium, matte green and pretty disease resistant. No mildew, and only a little blackspot on the very bottom. Spider mites didn't seem to like this one either, and they run rampant in our area. You really have to stay on top of them.
Blooms were single early in the season, but the farther along we got the more blooms there were on each cluster. One of the last clusters in December had nine blooms on it.
These bushes are planted in well amended clay loam against east facing privacy fence recieving dierct sun until around 3 pm. Summer temps are in the triple digits. I think we topped out at 108 last year. Hope this helps somebody. Be sure to check out my pics. :-)
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Best review ever !! Thank you.
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This rose is EVERYWHERE here. In stores. In parks. At homes. lol
It is a good all-around rose, and its a good grower, but beware of two things:
It is highly susceptible to damp winter issues (canker, die-back, crown gall), and it bleaches horribly. To be perfectly honest, I think Dream Come True, while a similar plant size, has better bloom longevity, and it winters more easily here. I can not speak for other zones, though. For a rose of similar color, try 'Solitaire', unless you live in zone 9-10, where Solitaire becomes a giant....
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