HELPMEFIND PLANTS COMMERCIAL NON-COMMERCIAL RESOURCES EVENTS PEOPLE RATINGS
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Initial post
12 JUL 10 by
kev
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the rose pictured here is pink.Duc de Fitzjames is not this colour.It is a deep violet/purple and dark crimson red.
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The 'Vintage Book of Roses' says that there are two plants in commerce called 'Duc de Fitzjames', one darker than the other. Mine is lilac pink, similar to the flowers I see in the photos. My plant came from 'La Campanella' in Italy, but I don't know where they got their mother plant. According to Vintage the darker-flowered variety is likelier to be the correct one.
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Interesting, thanks for taking the time to sharing this insight with HelpMeFind. Just what HMF is all about - a tool to collect and disseminate gardening information to a participating online community.
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#3 of 9 posted
31 JUL 18 by
 jedmar
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La Campanella has many of their Gallicas from Cour de Commer - the collection of François Joyaux. 'Duc de Fitzjames' in commerce is often 'Mme Lauriol de Barny', a Bourbon rose.
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I don't have 'Mme. Lauriol de Barny' in the garden and haven't seen it, at least not identified as such. I took a look at the newest page of photos of this variety on HMF, and, though I haven't made a careful comparison, right now I wouldn't swear that the rose I see in the photos isn't my 'Duc de Fitzjames'. My rose is a good tough variety with opulent blooms, coming easily from cuttings, has never reflowered later in the season, and gets some fungal disease after blooming, though not enough to do it any harm. Lanky in growth; thorny. I'm fond of it, mainly because of the very handsome blooms combined with the ability to flourish in quite poor conditions.
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#5 of 9 posted
4 AUG 18 by
jedmar
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Melissa, it would be very helpful if you could post some photos of your 'Duc de Fitzjames' on HMF.
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I'm a reluctant photographer (and this isn't the season anyway). I wanted to add to my description that my 'Duc de Fitzjames' sets hips, which are rounded oval, about 2cm wide and slightly longer, and smooth, the orifice not wide, sepals not persistent. They haven't matured yet so I don't know their color. A final note: my rose has long-lived canes, and suckers out, slowly and not aggressively.
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I came here to check on the color of this rose because last year it was a medium to light pink and this year it's quite dark with violet undertones. Would anyone know what would change the color.
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Is this rose on its own roots or is it grafted? Sometimes the rootstock of a grafted plant will send up its own cane that would be a different color than the scion.
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It's an own root that I bought as a cutting 3 years ago from High Country Roses. As he has come into full bloom, they seemed to have lightened a little, ut still not as light as they were last year. I will try to post a picture from a few days ago.
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Please can anyone tell me if this rose sets hips, and if so, what the resulting seedlings are like?
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Hmf lists these as descendants:
Madame Gustave Fargeton
Starlight (hybrid multiflora, Paul, 1909)
The Sweet Little Queen of Holland
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Thanks Margaret. Shame none of them seem to be in commerce, as I would like to have seen the results of Celine Forestier's motherhood, so to speak.
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#4 of 5 posted
9 FEB 24 by
Emily W.
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I have a rooted cutting on order from Rose Valley Roses.
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I just purchased one recently from Burlington.
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"what the resulting seedlings are like?"
This depends on what you use it with.
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How many years did it take to get this big?
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Initial post
14 MAY 18 by
Dirk77
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This Bourbon is one of those very few historical roses wich have passed the test of time and after more than 130 years she's still wildly popular and it's no difficult to see why.
The real Mme Pereire's first name was Fanny and she was the wife of a very rich French banker, Isaac Pereire. They gave very much money to good deeds and charity. I'll add a photo of the real Mme, Fanny, Isaac Pereire but now back to the actual rose :
I've had this rose for decades and she's still my favorite rose. Her huge perfectly quartered baroque flowers are simply unique, no other rose has such flowers. And yes there is the scent, wich blows you away. It's a wonderful blend of old roses with raspberry and yes it's very powerful especially in warm weather with little wind.
I've grown her as a shrub for years but now she's against my garden stone brick walls and this is probably the best way to grow this magnificent old Lady. Just trim her as horizontal as possible and she will reward you with lots of flowers. I feed her every month starting at March and i continue till August. I give organic mineral granulated manure, a handful each month and ( this is important) a lot of water! I water every day especially when in full flush and between flushes. It gives her the power to take in all those nutrients she needs to grow and rebloom. Against the walls she reaches 3X 2 meters but she's going to get bigger because it's only her third year. She's very hardy and her only weakness is that she's a little bit prune to blackspot but not worse than most modern varieties. After three years against the wall she hasn't developed blackspot wich my other specimens did growing as a shrub. So that's it! I can't tell you enough how much I love this wonderful old Lady.
Growth: 8
Color: 9
Fragrance: 9
Flower quality: 10
Disease resistance: 7
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#1 of 16 posted
1 AUG 18 by
Magnus95
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Thanks for sharing your experience with this rose! I'm growing its daughter rose "Sandringham" but there doesnt seem to be any information on its growth characteristics, so I thought it best to look at it's parent. From what you say I can certainly see the resemblance in flowering, fragrance and vigour!
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Now that yours is a little more mature, how would you say it performs in terms of bloom frequency? Specifically, how many bloom cycles are you getting now? Mine is potted and only 2yrs old. I got one good flush out of it and that was it, not a single bloom afterwards.
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#3 of 16 posted
23 OCT 19 by
Magnus95
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I'm assuming you're talking about Sandringham, in which case im surprised to hear that! Mine is also potted and had excellent repeat bloom all season. Rarely out of flower even in its first year. Perhaps using a richer, heavier compost might help?
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Thanks for your response. I actually mistakenly posted under the wrong thread! Still it might be worth looking into Sandringham. I'm giving more consideration to bloom frequency these days.
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Now that yours is a little more mature, how would you say it performs in terms of bloom frequency? Specifically, how many bloom cycles are you getting now? Mine is potted and only 2yrs old. I got one good flush out of it and that was it, not a single bloom afterwards.
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The MIP which I grew in CA Central Valley bloomed very well with little or no supplemental water. The bush is a thorny monster and is a good choice to plant on a property line if you want to discourage trespass without seeming to do so. Now, I like thorny monsters, confess to an enduring fondness for 'Othello' among others, which I see as a plants that make a yard interesting.
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that was a great report, thanks. I've planted this but I'm surprised to hear you feed it each month, I'm an amateur and been swotting the usual advice which says feed roses in the spring, March/April and again July/August. Been led to believe that that is the 'orthodox' feeding regime and I've been warned off overfeeding them. Do you feed all your roses this way ?
Peter
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#8 of 16 posted
3 MAR 21 by
Dirk77
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Hi Peter,
Yes i feed all my roses each month starting end of March. I basically use a combination of organic/mineral fertiliser low in Nitrogen and worm compost. Worm compost is the best compost in the world especially when combined with lava powder (volcanic stone which has been grinded into powder).
Lots of organic mulch is the premium key. I water all my roses when weather is hot and dry. Roses can't absorb the nutritions when the soil is dry.
So Peter: Compost /cow manure /lava powder.
Friendly greetings Dirk
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I guess frequency of feeding depends on your soil type; sand might well need what you're recommending. I have clay sol, and I feed my plants (mine are all heritage roses) with a commercial seaweed / fowl manure compound. The manufacturers recommend feeding each quarter, but I don't often get around to it more than once or twice a year. I don't use the mix they make specifically for roses, because it contains too much phosphate for my native Australian plants.
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#10 of 16 posted
3 MAR 21 by
Dirk77
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Peter,
If it works for your roses? Don't change it! Clay soil is good for roses as long as it isn't too heavy. You can make heavy clay soils lighter with milled basalt fiber/powder. But if the roses are doing fine, don't change it. I never give artificial fertiliser, always organic.
Greetings Dirk
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Yes: stay with what works for you.
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thanks for the advice everyone. This is my first year at a rose garden. I've been gardening for many years and always had the occasional rose but I have my best garden, location and view EVER in this property, so I've gone for it. 15 climbers and numerous roses, mostly DAs. So Ive no idea what works yet :-)
The soil is a rich loamy texture with a base, about 2 feet down which looks like stratified sand and clay but it breaks up like shale when you put the spade into it. I'm also on the coast, my shoreline is a short stroll from the house and this land was once seabed. So I've prepared all my beds with one year old homemade compost using two year old manure, loads of black and rotted leaf mold, rotted household compost and shredded seaweed and this mix is tumbled in my cement mixer with an equal amount of the existing loam. ( it's got loads of worms in it, lovely stuff ). The planted rose then gets a tablespoon of bonemeal as a top dressing.
Every rose has a deep cool base under the planted area, gets at last a few hours sunlight, some, several, but none of them are planted in any darl and overshadowed locations, all get daylong ambient light. And we get any amount of rain, could do with more sunshine but it is Ireland. According to the zone table I'm in 9b :-)
Ive also prepared, since last year, a big tub of seaweed soup for feeding during the season and I did wonder; as all my roses are 'repeat flowering', if I was supposed to feed them more than the orthodox twice a season, because they are expected to bloom so much.
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peterdewolf - HelpMeFind works best when a comment is confined to the specific page subject. Think about opening a page for your garden and placing comments like this in there.
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Hi, back again for a little more info. My Isaac is planted in the same well prepared bed as several DA roses, but it has produced miserable growth so far and certainly no buds. It came bare root from DA along with the other roses and it had very sparse canes, it has made very sparse growth but that seems healthy. Is it a VERY slow starter ? This is its first year with me
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#16 of 16 posted
30 JUN 23 by
Emily W.
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This is the first year I've used both the volcanic rock dust and the worm castings and the difference is amazing! This year the blooms on my MIP are huge and canes are thick. My soil test showed that I was low on some minerals (boron, zinc, etc,) but I have to believe that they are fine now. I did only apply it in the spring, but after reading your post Peter I'll start doing it once a month. What are you using for mulch?
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