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Lee H.
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Initial post 11 JUN by christineb
Which roses give you the longest lasting blooms (on the plant, not necessarily in a vase)?

The best in my SE England garden are:
Dublin Bay, each flower lasts 4 weeks
Parade, 3 weeks
Ginger Syllabub, 2 weeks
Elmshorn, 2 weeks
(I don't seem to notice the bushes as much as the climbers.)

I think longer lasting flowers make for the most color. Blooms that only last a few days usually repeat faster and can be very floriferous (my stand outs are For Yours Eyes Only and Alibaba), but I really prefer longer lasting blooms. I can’t understand why no one talks about this! I would always go for the longest lasting flowers when buying a rose if this info was available, but it is quite hard to find.

Most newer rose varieties only last a few days each. I think in recent decades, rose breeders have concentrated on healthy foliage and fragrance, whereas in the 1950s-70s long lasting blooms seem to have been a higher priority, and most last a week or more. Older roses than that I think vary by family, but I don't have a lot of experience with them.

Thoughts?
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Reply #1 of 6 posted 11 JUN by HubertG
At the moment in winter in Sydney I've noticed my 'Europeana' is giving bloom that doesn't seem to age, lasting for weeks.

I have a pale pink seedling which I bred, 'General Schablikine' x 'Lorraine Lee', which has given winter flowers lasting in good condition for nearly four weeks. It was surprising since neither parent lasts that long, 'General Schablikine' in particular lasting maybe four days at best.
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Reply #2 of 6 posted 12 JUN by christineb
Thanks for your reply. Interesting that the seedling can differ from the parents in this way. Should I look forward to your new rose coming on the market someday? ;)
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Reply #3 of 6 posted 12 JUN by HubertG
Christineb, it's just a hobby for me, but if I did ever produce something really worthwhile I wouldn't rule out trying to introduce it.

Regarding long lasting roses, I'd say probably any rose initially bred for the florist industry that has become popular in gardens stands a good chance of lasting longer than average. I bought on impulse 'Our Vanilla' a few weeks ago, and it is supposed to be such a type of rose, and it is described as having papery petals. It's already sending out shoots, so I'll let you know later on how long they last.

I remember reading an old reference that 'Kaiserin Auguste Viktoria' was outstanding in how well it lasted. I tried growing it years ago but rarely got a flower.

'Peter Frankenfeld' is popular in Australia and for me it lasts well on the bush. It does have quite a lot of the early twentieth century American florist roses in its background, which might explain that.

'Camp David' is another one I grow with lasting flowers. I even made a post a couple of years ago about mine lasting two and a half weeks. It's a surprisingly good winter flowerer here too.
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Reply #4 of 6 posted 12 JUN by Lee H.
From casual observation, my top 4:

Beauty Secret
Stars ‘n’ Stripes
Florentina
O.L. Weeks

The latter is very resistant to fading and bluing, and may also be the most vigorous and floriferous hybrid tea in my garden. Yet I’ve found little about it in the literature.
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Reply #5 of 6 posted 11 days ago by christineb
Thank you both for your replies. I've looked up all of the roses you mention. So many of them are red-- I wonder if that is coincidence.

Europeana, Peter Frankenfeld, and O.L. Weeks do not seem to be available in the UK unfortunately.
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Reply #6 of 6 posted yesterday by HubertG
Christineb, I've no experience growing it, but from some of the comments here 'St. Patrick' seems to have flowers that can last on the bush for weeks. It might be another variety worth looking into.
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most recent 11 days ago HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 13 days ago by HubertG
I wonder whether this might be the original 'Lady Mary Fitzwilliam'. The foliage, flowers and plentiful hips seem to be a match. Or maybe one of her closer descendants?
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Reply #1 of 4 posted 13 days ago by Lee H.
That’s an exciting proposition. LMF is such an important rose, and deserves a better fate than extinction. If I had access to both, I’d want to cross her with ‘Dr. Grill’, and see if something approximating ‘Antoine Rivoire’ would result. Because science, you know? :-)
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Reply #2 of 4 posted 13 days ago by Patricia Routley
Contributions from members on the average height of “Bishop’s Lodge Mary Mathews” might help.
The original ‘Lady Mary Fitzwilliam’ was low.
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Reply #3 of 4 posted 12 days ago by Margaret Furness
From memory, the plant at Renmark was less than 1.2m high.
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Reply #4 of 4 posted 11 days ago by HubertG
Thanks, Margaret. The photo by Ozoldroser of the bush at 'Budgewah', Hay certainly looks wider than it is high.

I'm only going by the photos here, but I'm really struck at how closely the flower form and petals match the photos of LMF and her sports. I can see the same shallowly concave/shell-shaped petals with scrolled edges and central notches at the petal tips, and how the outer ones reflex to form an angular silhouette. Even the buds are somewhat pointed but with scrolled edges. The rounded leaflets and their spacing also seems to be a perfect match to the Jekyll/Mawley photo. A search online will show a couple of bloom photos on facebook which are almost identical matches to that same photo.

After my initial thought that this looks like LMF was one doubting its likeliness to have been growing at Hay at the time of Bishop Anderson (1896-1925) or, if it was there, to have survived. However a search of the local Hay newspaper The Riverine Grazier gives two mentions of 'Lady Mary Fitzwilliam' winning in the cut flower section at the annual Hay Spring Show - one in 1897 and one in 1899, both as specimens in a group of six different varieties and shown by different exhibitors. The 1899 mention is interesting because it immediately goes on to mention the Bishop of Riverina's display of pelargoniums, some of his own breeding. So it seems certain that Bishop Anderson would have seen LMF displayed at the Hay Show. I don't know if he dabbled in breeding roses as well as pelargoniums but if he did it's intriguing to speculate that he might also have grown LMF for its reputation as being a good parent.

Anyway, I think it definitely needs observation so if anyone here grows it more photos would be much appreciated. Of course I could be barking up the wrong tree but I just can't unsee what I've now seen. It would be awesome if LMF didn't go extinct.
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most recent 12 days ago HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 12 days ago by MADActuary
I have some nice pictures of my 2 rose gardens in or near full bloom. I would like to post them on HMF but I can't seem to find the appropriate place to do so.

There should be a "Gardens Photos" area somewhere!
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Reply #1 of 1 posted 12 days ago by Lee H.
Click on “My Account”, then choose the “Member Garden” tab. Then you’ll see another tab labeled “Photos”.
That’s the way it works on my iPad, anyway.
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most recent 14 days ago HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 14 JUN by Lex-CC
Hi! I've just started with rose breeding. I'm in the UK.
I've just crossed a few roses in my garden and hope to collect the hips at the start of October.
I'm trying to think through the best plan as I will be away for a couple of weeks in early October....
Here is my current draft plan:
At the start of October, remove the successful hips, wash briefly in dilute Milton (hypochlorite), rinse in water and store each hip in it's own individual little bags in the fridge whilst I'm away. Then, extract the seeds from the hip, wash the seeds in Milton and rinse in water. Place the sets of seeds in individual little bags with a damp piece of tissue, in the fridge, for a couple of weeks. Then plant out seeds in a tray and leave in the garage over winter.
Please can people advise if this seems reasonable. I don't want to lose my first precious crosses!
Thanks very much in advance.
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Reply #1 of 4 posted 14 JUN by HubertG
Sounds OK. I'm in Australia and I don't bother with the fridge treatment. I do use dilute bleachy water to clean the seeds once they are removed from the hip, then rinse them with clean water, let them dry on some tissue then plant as soon as I can.
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Reply #2 of 4 posted 14 JUN by Lex-CC
Thanks very much for the information.
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Reply #3 of 4 posted 14 JUN by Lee H.
I’d recommend joining the Rose Hybridizers Association (rosebreeders dot org), and getting their book “Rose Hybridizing For Beginners”. Lots of good ideas, and they have an active forum on such subjects.
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Reply #4 of 4 posted 14 days ago by Lex-CC
Thank you.
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