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'White Licorice™' rose Reviews & Comments
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Initial post
7 OCT 22 by
Emmie
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White Licorice is tough as old boots in my zone 7 garden. Summers are very hot and dry, with temperatures over 100 F for a good two months. White Licorice continues to grow and bloom, though when it's particularly hot, blooms are a bit smaller (about 3'' rather than 4-4.5''), but always ruffly and abundant. She's planted in a northwest-facing area, receiving about 8 hours of direct sun, somewhat divided as shade casts differently throughout the long summer days. Moving into September/October, she receives less than a couple hours of direct sunlight, yet as I write this in early October, she's still pumping out blooms and growing (I stopped deadheading and fertilizing in August). Her blooms are the perfect pale yellow fading to cream and have a fresh, clean fragrance.
I've made lots of mistakes with her as she was my first rose. Through it all, she's been unbothered. She's a reliable, tough rose. Twenty-five (and counting) roses later, I've learned a great deal, but I have a great fondness for White Licorice and would recommend her without hesitation.
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What's the hardiness rating of White Licorice? Weeks roses doesn't list anything, but Heirloom Roses says zone 5.
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#1 of 1 posted
6 AUG 22 by
 Lee H.
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Good question. Spring Hill says zone 4. Regan and Nature Hills say zone 6. High Country says 5. I’d say Weeks may be looking for some beta testers.
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APL 2011 ~ White Licorice is on sale for $35.00 at SummerWinds Nursery(formally Woolworth Garden Centers) in Silicon Valley,CA stores.
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Grossly overpriced. Edmunds has it for around $18 and Witherspoon for around $23, and even with shipping it works out cheaper. Edmunds' plants are good, but Witherspoon's are enough better to warrant the additional $5; in fact, they're the best I've ever seen, from a mail-order place or any other seller.
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I saw many bare-root-body-bag & grafted-on Dr.Huey White Licorice on sale at Menards this spring for less than $5.
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That's great, and I'll go look. We're having trouble here with rose rosette disease, though, and those bagged discount-store roses need very thorough looking-over. If even one in the store is showing symptoms, don't buy there, and wash your hands, clothes and shoes in hot water before going near your own roses again. Dry on "hot", too, to make sure any mites are dead. RRD is _devastating._ It'll kill your own roses, and can go on to those of your neighbors for a couple blocks around. It is not curable or even treatable. And then unless the soil is completely dug out and replaced, you and they will have to wait years to grow roses again.
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Another of the bad vectors for the disease is the "Knockout" roses--yet another reason not to grow the damn things. :)
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If I see another Knock-out I'm going to puke. It's everywhere in the neighborhood. Walmart's parking lot had a bunch of them .. so glad they died over the winter.
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This is an earnest question, not meant as a provocation: What is it with Knock Out that makes people react so strongly and negatively ? I' ve read rose people a couple of times saying they hate it. I have never seen Knock Out knowingly - I've seen one rose of which I thought it might be Knock Out which was most impressive - so I'm not able to form my own opinion (yet). Many people seem to love it (obviously it's planted in lots of places), yet many don't. Why?
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The older RED single-petal knock-out is extremely thorny, ugly bush. The newer RED double-petal knock-out is more slender & compact. The PINK double-Knock-out doesn't have much thorns, but not as vigorous as the RED version. My neighbor was really mad when her PINK knock-out sprouted bright cherry-RED, it was actually grafted on a RED knock-out. It was not Dr.Huey, but actually a RED-knock-out as rootstock. She offered to me for FREE, but I already killed a bunch of my RED knock-outs.
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#7 of 20 posted
5 MAY 17 by
Jay-Jay
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Not all the rose-lovers detest prickles on a rose.
Knock Out roses have more to offer than being prickly.
As for continuous flowering, as for climate zonage and possibly as for breeding material for future Earth-kind roses.
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I have been growing these landscape roses for 17 years: 6 Knock-outs and 3 Flower Carpet roses. Knock-outs (both pink and red) need a HUGE amount of water to bloom, but break out in cerespora with acidic rain. Flower Carpet is way better than Knock-out. Flower Carpet blooms 1 month ahead of Knock-out in spring. Flower Carpet is drought-tolerant & better zone 5a winter survival & can handle spring flood. I never see any diseases in Flower Carpet's glossy foliage & way more blooms than Knock-outs.
Flower Carpets need less water to bloom than Knock-outs. Both rose parks (Cantigny with 1,200 roses) and Chicago Botanical garden (5,000 roses) got rid of their red-single-Knock-out: ugly bush shape. These parks still grow double-pink Knock-out (better bush shape & more flowers). Home Run is even stingier than Knock-out in blooms. Cantigny rose park got rid of Home run, only 1/10 the amount of blooms compared to Flower Carpet. For pictures of Flower Carpet at Chicago Botanical Garden, see the below link, which I took last spring:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3179492/chicago-botanical-gardens-waterfalls-and-roses-and-perennials?n=93
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Maybe they grow better in Europe?
BTW Straw, loved Chicago Botanic gardens, great pictures.
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#14 of 20 posted
9 MAY 17 by
Fadi
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I love my flower carpet yellow !
Absolutely beautiful!
No watering
No fertiliser
No disease
Flood tolerant ! Leafing out while practically setting
In water after spring snow melt and flood
Tolerant of heavy wet clay in Canada z5
Highly recommend
I also recommend the drift roses
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You mean "flower carpet amber"? Saw that at Lowe's for $10 in late fall (1/2 price), and the leaves were so pretty & glossy & perfect. The blooms were peachy yellow. Too bad I didn't buy it.
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#16 of 20 posted
9 MAY 17 by
Fadi
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I have the flower carpet yellow , red , scarlet, and pink supreme
I meant the flower carpet yellow , I planted 3 yellow together in a shady
area ( 3 hours of sun ) , the area is flooded in spring and wet during the summer
so no watering at all. The yellow grows tall and not bushy like the red or scarlet
I planted the pink supreme in fall last tea so it was dormant and I am looking to flower this year
I posted a picture of my flower carpet yellow on helpmefind
The leaves are very glossy and no disease at all in shade ; of course I would expect it to flower more in full sun
But I am really happy with the performance of yellow
I haven't seen the Amber but I would buy this if I still have a space
I have 2 drifts and I want to buy the apricot drift: very compact and hardy
Roses
http://www.helpmefind.com/rose/l.php?l=21.297065
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I saw your link ... so pretty !!
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What it is about 'Knockout' is that it is, for many of us, a bland, boring rose with a dull color. In addition, the hype surrounding this rose was beyond annoying. What KO offers, an easy care, long blooming splash of color, has been in fact available for many years. Chinas and teas for the warmer zones, polyanthas and some of the floribundas for temperate gardens, and rugosas and some of the Canadian roses offer the same thing with much more attractive flowers.
Furthermore, what might be called landscape roses have also been available from at least around the mid-80s. The Flowercarpets from Noack (I think), the Meidillands and Drifts from Meilland and the low growing, bright roses from Ping Lim and Bear Creek all offer a better, IMHO, version of what you get from the KOs. I grow both 'White Meidilland' and 'Alba Meidilland'; both are perfectly cane hardy in zone 5, have far more beautiful flowers than, e.g.. 'White Out'. I consider 'Alba Meidilland', an ever blooming rambler, to be in fact a great rose, to be ranked with such classics as 'Peace' and 'Mr. Lincoln'.
Having said all that, what I am excited about from Mr. Radler is the larger bushes, like 'Milwaukee Calatrava' and climbers he is working on now.
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Very well written, Nastarana. THANK YOU. There's the myth of "blackspot-resistant-strain" which made Knock-out famous. Drift roses can do what Knock-out cannot do: stay healthy in flood zone. My neighbor's Drift roses get bigger as they get older, while her 30+ Knock-out shrank due to poor winter-survival.
Val who works for decades at a landscape company in warm Florida, zone 8b, gave THUMB-DOWN for Knock-out, for the same reason: cerespora fungal-disease from rain, plus not blooming well in hot & dry spell.
Chicago botanical garden has a large tree, which they planted dozens of light pink & double Flower Carpet in a circle next to the tree. There were more blooms than leaves on those roses, despite being planted ON TOP of tree's root & partial shade. Flower Carpet can easily get the "more blooms than leaves" look, but Knock-out cannot, unless it's week-long rain. See below link pictures of Drift roses, Flower Carpet, and Ping-Lim roses at Cantigny Rose Park, which I took near my alkaline clay, zone 5a. Rainbow Knock-out was the worst-looking among their 1,000+ landscape bushes:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3194694/cantigny-gardens-roses-mccormick-mansion-war-museum-and-perennials?n=62
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Also, KO (1.) is ugly between flushes, (2.) has virtually no fragrance, (3.) sets no fruit, and (4.) has squeezed most or all other roses out of a lot of garden centers. Personally, I don't find the color dull, and I do like the look of an established KO in full bloom. But there are just too many good reasons to hate them...not least that the landlady's KO's rose rosette disease (for which KOs are an absolute magnet) took out my best-ever, really glorious plant of my alltime favorite hybrid tea, Kordes Perfecta, and made it impossible for us to grow roses here for years on.
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The use of chemical fertilizer high in nitrogen do attract pests (including RRD mites). There are many studies that show high nitrogen attract pests. When the natural environment is altered with chemicals, that invite pathogenic pests. When a rose is weakened with acidity (either from acidic soil, or acidic rain, or acidic fertilziers), pests can take over. If you google "pH of rain across USA, you'll see a pH of 4.5 for my Chicagoland, and even lower for the east coast.
Re-post the info. I gave: "HMF is the best source for info., but I wish folks would specify their soil & climate & planting zone & what region of the country. People want to hold on to "old generalizations", rather than learning. Like nearby rose park, I was shocked to see them dumping sulfur in spring ... they burnt Tamora (prefers alkaline), also induced RRD (rose rosette disease) on Pink Traviata (Meilland rose) which also prefers alkaline. Gypsum is also acidic, I killed lots of earthworms using that stuff, and it burns my finger. Gypsum has calcium plus sulfur.
I made the same mistake years ago: dumping sulfur plus high nitrogen chemical fertilizer on a Grandma' Blessing rose, changing my soil pH to very acidic. It immediately came down with RRD five years ago. That's the ONLY rose with RRD in my 30+ years of growing roses, among 100+ varieties. I planted Radio Times in the exact spot, but I raised the pH with more alkaline clay, and no RRD ever since. I wish folks would stop generalizations, "Mr. Lincoln for fragrant reds", "roses prefer acidic", and "roses need full-sun". Own-root roses are completely different from each other.
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Hmmm....our rain here is mildly acidic, but not enough to wreck the soil pH, which I checked. And nothing got dumped on my Kordes Perfecta but good old Black Cow; the landlady's KO didn't even get that. RRD is spread by a mite, and if significant numbers of the mites are around, the roses in the area are likely to get it, despite decent pH and no chemicals. Sucks, but there it is.
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I have alkaline clay, as well, on the east coast. Are you saying that it’s actually better for roses? I keep reading about how roses are healthiest in slightly acid soil. I amend with compost and I use mulch, but I’ve been wondering if I need to do more to bring down the pH. My cheapie pH meter says my soil is between 8 and 9 on the scale, which I’m sure isn’t right (it says the same about vinegar ???). I take that with a grain of salt, but my hydrangeas that are pH sensitive all bloom very pink. My roses do seem to be healthy and grow well, though.
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Also, there's Bonica, which is beautiful, tough, floriferous over a very long season, reasonably fragrant, and genuinely healthy, and which sets good hips, Royal Bonica is also excellent.
And then there are the Griffith Buck roses, many of which are shrubby (see Carefree Beauty, among others) and nearly all of which are tough, lovely, floriferous, hardy, and healthy. Most are at least somewhat fragrant.
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Initial post
23 MAR 21 by
kgs
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Just have to say this has quickly become one of my favorite roses. I planted it last year and it immediately took off. It is great for smaller gardens because it has a very upright habit, but isn't "compact"; it easily exceeded 30" high (the height of the picket fence it is against) and is floriferous and a strong repeat bloomer. And the fragrance is to my nose strong and delicious (it helps if you like anise). The flowers last and last on the bush, even in 100 degree heat, and even longer in the vase. It has shrugged off all disease and its foliage is nice as well. I love the frilliness of the petals. Just an all-around great rose. Might help if it were called Buttery Licorice or something like that because it is really white/light yellow, but no regrets. Wish I had room for several more.
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