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Wendy C
AuthorDiscussion id : 8-917
most recent 16 FEB 18 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 1 JUN 05 by Unregistered Guest
My roses are just not producing and are not healthy. All my roses are in large pots. All winter I mixed into the soil of all rose pots ground up banana peals, egg shells, orange peals, coffee grounds, etc. from kitchen. About a month ago I added two cups of Terosia (5-8-2) to each of my 25+ pots (pots are 23"w x 20"h). At the same time I mixed into the soil Bone Meal, Epsom salts, alfalfa meal, and spray about every other week with Orthenex and Soda & dish drops (1 tbs/gal). Most rose bushes do not have a lot of foliage and some plants leaves have turned yellow and blsck tips...have I burned them? Plants that have eatern & southern sun are doing very well with a lot of new growth. plants with southern exposure are not doing well. most are not producing blooms as much as I'd wish?!?!!?

I’m really messing up! I do have .jpg format pictures I'd be glad to forward that would give you a better perspective of my problem plants. if you want to let me know your email address I'll send them at your request. I'm with GE Financial and my system is extremely secure and updated daily so I can assure anything I send you will be clean and not put your system at risk.

Any guidance that will make me a hero in raising bountiful healthy roses is appreciated!! I'm so frustrated and want to learn everything i can to have the garden that others always enjoy viewing!!
Sincerely,
Jack A. Smelser
Redmond, WA (Seattle area)
REPLY
Reply #1 of 11 posted 2 JUN 05 by RoseBlush
Jack, I am not Kim, but have worked with him for years, so I am going to jump in here and see if I can help. I have also grown both miniature and large roses in containers both in southern and northern California for well over ten years and may be able find a way to help you take care of your roses that doesn't require so much work and stress.

I am not a true organic gardener, so many of the additives you mention are something I have not used. I use a good potting soil that will hold water, but is not so heavy that the roses are sitting in mud after I water them. Roses need good drainage, so I do not put a saucer under the pot because that can lead to root rot if the rose is left in standing water. I also lift the pot up a bit from the hardscape to make sure I get good drainage.

You didn't say whether your roses were new roses in their maiden year or older roses you have had for some time, so I can't address the differences in care too much in this post.

Some rosarians will "pot up" a new rose....putting them in a smaller pot and then when the rose out grows that one, move the plant to a larger pot. I don't follow this practice at all because I don't like to disturb the roots of a rose, if I can avoid it. I just plop the rose into it's final container. I try to use at least a 7 gal pot for miniatures and 15 to 20 for larger roses.

When I plant the rose about 2/3 down in the pot, I put a tablespoon of bone meal and some 10-10-10 time released plant food. I'll put more near the top 6 inches of soil before I am finished because the feeder roots of the roses are near the surface of the soil.

Once I have planted the rose, I mulch the pot and water daily until I see new top growth. At that point, I know the root system is beginning to work properly. Then I do a drench feed with Miracle Grow. Organics are not readily available to the plant because it takes time for bacteria to break them down into nutrients the rose can use. MG works just fine. I feed about every two weeks and make sure the roses do not dry out in their pots.

I never add any kind of salts to a container grown rose because there is always a salt build-up in the pots from other kinds of fertilizers.

You have already figured out that the roses need sun. Other things to remember is that you can't count on rain to water your plants for you when they are in containers. The rain bounces off of the leaves and may never reach the soil in your container. Containers placed too close to a structure are subject to reflected heat from the structure and the hardscape, so you do have to be careful where you place the plants. I'll often move a rose around to a different location if I think that might make the plant perform better.

Note: When I first started working with Kim, one of the things he had me do was read every rose book I could get my hands on, both picture books and those which were pure text. You can't really learn how to grow roses from books, but it does inform what you do in the garden. You learn to grow roses by growing roses and making mistakes and having successes.

If you would like to contact me privately, as Kim's plate is very full right now, you can reach me here at HelpMeFind by using my name and the @ symbol. We do not post email addy's, even mine, on this forum to protect users from spam.

Good luck with your roses.

Smiles,

Lyn
helpmefind.com
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Reply #4 of 11 posted 2 JUN 05 by Unregistered Guest
Dear Lyn,

Thank you for your time and teaching. I've come to the conclusing I done a great job burning the H out of my roses...too much love can snuff the life out...as we men or reminded every so often!!

I have three new ones this season but the other 27 are five to seven years old. Only one miniture. I've read an purchased a lot of books on roses but have not found what I would consider a real detailed instructional book on solving problems or curing sick plants?!?! any ideas?

Jack in Redmond
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Reply #5 of 11 posted 2 JUN 05 by RoseBlush
Jack,

Yup, I have lots of ideas ! I have had to rescue roses from neglect and poor care several times. I need real specifics to tell you exactly what to do, but Wendy was very correct in telling you not to feed your roses for a while. Feeder roots are very tiny and can be easily burned. Your very best fertilizer right now is water. New feeder roots are growing as I am writing this post. They are tender and don't need any more food until the grow up a little bit. For plants that are in terrible shape, I might give them a light dose of vitamin B-1, but that's it and only once to get them started.

Note: It's almost impossible to rescue a rose that is a poor plant with a pretty bloom. It's not worth the effort. There are too many great roses out there that deserve your time and love.

One of the most important things to remember is that roses WANT to grow. That's their mission in life.

If the roses are very defoliated, you need to be concerned about sunburn and dehydration. For plants in the worst condition this way, I have used a wet t-shirt trailing into a bucket of water to wrap around the canes. It's important to give the rose some hours of sunlight, but this can save some of the top growth.

Since you know you have root damage, you might want to cut the top growth down a bit, but be careful. Modern roses store their nutrients in their canes and once they are out of dormancy, you are cutting off their food source. Don't give them a drastic hair cut. Just enough so that the roots don't have to supply water and other nutrients to a lot of top growth.

I also don't allow a stressed rose to bloom. It takes away too much energy from the recovering plant. I want all of that energy to go into the production of roots and foliage. I can get blooms later in the season or next year. My goal is to have a healthy plant.

In my intensive care program, I stick with regular ol' Miracle grow at half strength and drench feed one week and foliar feed the next week. In my experience, I have only had to do this for about 4 weeks and the rose starting responding like a very healthy plant.

The rose is your best teacher. Books are good, but learning from the rose can't be topped. Since most of these are older roses, you might even want to replace the soil, but that doesn't seem to be the most important use of your time. Letting the plant get water and sun, grow new roots and protecting it from dehydration will do more for the plant than anything else I can think of at this moment.

I don't worry too much about mildew in my microclimate because it will go away when summer really hits, but if your climate doesn't get above 85 for days at a time, protecting the roses from mildew is important because damaged leaves cannot perform their function of photosythesis as effeciently.

In my old garden, I made an effort to grow mildew-resistant roses because I just liked gardening that way. Your solution of water and dish soap is often recommended as a remedy for mildew, so a lot of people have had success with this method.

Good luck with your roses.

Smiles,

Lyn
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Reply #6 of 11 posted 3 JUN 05 by Unregistered Guest
thank you for your coaching. question what does the attached .jpg tell you?

Jack in Redmond, WA
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Reply #7 of 11 posted 3 JUN 05 by RoseBlush
Jack..........

I love sharing what I know about roses, but thank you so much for the compliment. In this Q & A Forum, it is necessary to upload your photos for me to be able to see them. There are instructions in the help section.

Smiles,

Lyn
helpmefind.com

PS... I am still learning more about roses. I think I'll always be learning something new. For some reason, the roses never want to stop teaching.
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Reply #8 of 11 posted 3 JUN 05 by Unregistered Guest
there is a bit learning curve on how to use this system. From the attached .jpg do you have an opinion as to what may be causing it?
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Reply #9 of 11 posted 3 JUN 05 by HMF Admin
Jack,

We do not seem to have the jpg you mentioned. Please try this:

1. Click the EDIT button on your original post and use check the photo upload check box before clicking the CONTINUE button.
2. Use the upload form to upload your photo.
3. Use the CONTACT HMF link at the bottom of the (green) navigation menu so we'll know to check you upload worked properly.
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Reply #10 of 11 posted 4 JUN 05 by Unregistered Guest
Whats wrong with this?
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Reply #2 of 11 posted 2 JUN 05 by Wendy C
Jack, It sounds as if you are loving your roses to death.

Please don't feed them for awhile, I think the feeder roots have been burned. I'd wait until after they bloom and then a water soluable 20-20-20, about 1pint per bush.

Potted roses are easy to over water, make sure they dry out a bit between watering. The leaves will turn yellow and drop if they are being over watered.

I understand powdery mildew and black spot can pose a challenge for you. Lived in Bellevue for 5 years. It would seem you are overspraying them as well.

If you are seeing signs of disease, remove the effected foliage then spray with a copper product and rotate with a different fungicide to stave off resistance. Resist the urge to mix products.
There is no substitute for good circulation, so make sure the pots are well spaced. Also try to water them so there is no splash from the soil unto the foliage. The fungi live in the soil and are often transfered to the roses by splash.

Water the roses well the day before spraying. Spray in the morning or evening. And that should take care of the spray burn. Mix according to the package directions.

Roses can survive more neglect than their reputations would have you believe. Relax, and let the roses breathe for a while... they should forgive you.

Good Luck
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Reply #3 of 11 posted 2 JUN 05 by Unregistered Guest
Thank you for your feed back! You're hitting it square and confirming what I've done! I loaded my pots all winter with organic waste from the kitchen and then Terosa time release before my roses really got going. I've burned my poor plants real badley...that is forsure!! when I figured out what I had done I watered them a lot trying to off set the over fertilization?!?!

I don't have any black spot but did have a touch of powdery mildew. the best solution I've discovered is 1 stp of baking soda + 1 stp kitchen liq soap per gal of water eliminates the problem immediately!! Much better than any fungicide I've been using in past years...

thank you again...Jack in Redmond

REPLY
Reply #11 of 11 posted 16 FEB 18 by Frazky
Root Grow - mycorrhizal granules -
west north facing you will get mildew black-spot as morning sun does not burn off dew quick enough
-
Bordeux mixture spray may help blackspot etc
Dig up roses every winter after pruning-
- soak in warm milton hypochlorite for an hour.
- dry in airing cupboard..
keep in dry cool shed until replant in spring.{ or throw away or burn and start fresh }

Do not put unrotted vegetation in the soil .. encourages fungi bacteria .. ( a touch of bone meal is ok )
Choose suitable variety for the position shade heat moisture soil..
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most recent 30 JUL 17 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 25 FEB 04 by Unregistered Guest
i'm looking for this rose
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Reply #1 of 8 posted 26 JUN 03 by Anonymous-1936
www.carltonroses.com
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Reply #2 of 8 posted 25 FEB 04 by Anonymous-2559
Do you know where to find it? THANK YOU
Di23gould@aol.com
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Reply #3 of 8 posted 25 FEB 04 by Unregistered Guest
I got mine from Vintage Gardens: http://www.vintagegardens.com/
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Reply #4 of 8 posted 25 FEB 04 by Unregistered Guest
I grow this rose, it has a fabulous scent, somewhat like peaches, I think. It is a tall plant and the bloom is blousy. The color are beautiful ranging from a mixture of peach, pink, yellow and a hint of mauve as bloom ages. I bought mine own root from Unlimited.
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Reply #5 of 8 posted 25 FEB 04 by Unregistered Guest
I got mine at RosesUnlimited.com.
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Reply #6 of 8 posted 25 FEB 04 by Anonymous-797
Scratch #4. It's rosesunlimitedownroot.com. They don't take Visa, so you have to mail a check, but it's well worth it! Super service, too!
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Reply #7 of 8 posted 4 AUG 10 by Unregistered Guest
I am looking for a yellow rose with orange to pink tips to put infront of my house. I live in a place that's hot (like in the hundreds) and humid during the summer, and cold in the winter. Is this a good rose for me?
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Reply #8 of 8 posted 30 JUL 17 by StrawChicago Alkaline clay 5a
A friend in Texas, zone 8a, grew this rose as own-root. It died through her dry winter. Orange roses need more water or some shade from hot sun.
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most recent 13 JUN 17 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 26 AUG 06 by jared
Just planted two of theese, I love the color but they seem to be very slow growing, one came out bare root and I have nursed it back it only has two blooms with no new growth, should I prune hard, fertilize? It get plent of water and at least 6 hours of sun, socal. Any ideas to get this to perform?
Thanks in advance.
J.
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Reply #1 of 9 posted 26 AUG 06 by RoseBlush

J.........


You just planted it?  There's no need to push it.  In fact, if you are worried about it establishing itself, you might not allow it to bloom at all in the first year.  This allows the plant to put all of its energy into root-growth and plant growth.  If you have just planted it, water it every day and do not feed it until it shows new top growth.  That gives the plant a chance to establish feeder roots and get settled into its new home.


After you see the new top growth, you can go ahead and feed it as usual and water as needed.  If you live in an area where winter protection is required or might be a good idea, protect the plant during its first year.


It sounds like you have a pretty good idea about how to grow roses, so if you have a healthy plant to start with, you should end up with a good rose for your garden.


Smiles,


Lyn, helpmefind.com

REPLY
Reply #4 of 9 posted 12 JUN 17 by mamabotanica
Hi Lyn, I'm in hot Pasadena CA (zone 10b) and have a bunch of roses I planted from March of this year onward (a couple just last week and about six more to arrive when the order goes through). Do you recommend that roses in their first year of being planted get blooms snipped to help them establish? I know I did that with my blueberries and strawberries. Is it true of roses? it seems that the ones I'm getting soon and ones I recently planted should be put off blooming until after the heat of summer? What would you do?
I'm new to this.
Thanks,
Joan
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Reply #5 of 9 posted 13 JUN 17 by Margaret Furness
Lyn's been quiet for a while.
I'm in a zone 9b, and we recommend that young own-root roses have most of the flower buds removed in the first summer, or in a drought. Budded plants are usually older, so it's less important, but removing some flower buds will help them divert their energy into growing roots and leaves. As with your blueberries. It's well into summer where you are, so anything you plant will need plenty of looking after, as Lyn suggests. 2-3 sheets of wet newspaper on the ground (to help suppress weeds), then about 4" depth of mulch on top of them (not touching the stem of the rose) makes a difference.
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Reply #7 of 9 posted 13 JUN 17 by mamabotanica
Thanks!
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Reply #6 of 9 posted 13 JUN 17 by Kim Rupert
Mamabotanica, I agree with Margaret, but would add, IF the rose appears to be struggling or taking longer than you deem appropriate, disbud it. Prevent it from flowering and it should respond by growing faster. Some roses won't do both simultaneously. Others seem to not care, pushing both flowers and growth without issue. Some types are very in need of disbudding, while others are not. Think own root Teas, Tea-Noisettes, weaker growing moderns...they may, eventually develop into great plants but definitely take their own sweet time doing so. That time can definitely be shortened by not allowing the plant to flower. But, if the plant appears to not be having any issues developing into what you expect it to be, disbudding is not required. If you WANT to disbud, do it. It will not hurt any rose to prevent it from flowering.
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Reply #8 of 9 posted 13 JUN 17 by mamabotanica
Many thanks! That makes sense to me. I got my first roses this September as 4" pots - Golden Celebration is still tiny and growing very slowly but Cornelia Hybrid Musk is climbing up the pergola and making some beautiful blooms already. I'll make sure Golden Celebration doesn't flower until it gets bigger and will keep a close eye on the hybrid tea own root plants that I hope to get from Roses Unlimited at some point.
Roses are such other worldly plants! They have such a rich history and there is SO MUCH to know about them (like all the different ways to prune different varieties). I'm a serious plant person and I'm intimidated. It feels like newbies can screw up so badly and spend loads of money on plants that end up as sad sick things or octopus armed monsters that will take over the garden. I guess if I keep focusing on building good soil like I do with my other beds I should be mostly okay. and deep watering to get the roots down!
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Reply #9 of 9 posted 13 JUN 17 by Kim Rupert
Definitely build the soil as that's the key to most gardening, no matter what kind of plant. Please don't let them intimidate you. They are NOT that difficult. They will "tell you" what they want by how they grow. I'm sure you already know how to read other plants, and roses are the same. You just need to learn their language and "conjugation". As for "octopus arms", if a rose is advertised as making a decent climber, expect the arms. A rose which makes a "manageable shrub" in the British, or even Northern US climates, will generally explode when let loose in the warmer Southern California areas. Many roses will tend to be larger here than they are advertised over seas. I used to joke that McGredy floribundas were usually "suitable for pegging" as they often grew like Hybrid Perpetuals...octopus arms which provided many flowering laterals when trained like climbers. Quite a few British floribundas of the seventies and eighties performed similarly. You're fortunate to live in SoCal. Unless you're spending money on the once-flowering, old European Garden Roses, there are few roses you won't be happy with. Between not really receiving enough chill hours and getting far too many high heat hours which counter acts the chill hours, many of those types won't flower, actually grow backwards each year and/or never really perform as well as they do where they are better suited. Most others will probably give you an acceptable level of performance to make you happy.
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Reply #2 of 9 posted 28 AUG 06 by Wendy C

By 'just planted' do you mean this Spring? or in the last couple of weeks?


The heat most everyone has experienced this year has slowed down the roses. VooDoo is a vigorous grower, give it a chance to recover from the high Summer temps. If it was planted in the Spring I would feed them now, and see if the cooler temps of September don't improve their performance.


Good Luck

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Reply #3 of 9 posted 28 AUG 06 by RoseBlush

Wendy.........


It's still in the 90s here.  I am waiting until the daily temps drop to the 80s before I start feeding the roses again.  Sure has been a long, hot summer.


Smiles,


Lyn, helpmefind.com


 


 


 

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most recent 9 JUN 17 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 24 JUL 06 by MarianWil
I'm new to growing roses and just received a Pat Austin as a gift. Does it bloom on both new and old growth? I live on the East Coast and would like to know when and how to prune it. Thank you.
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Reply #1 of 3 posted 25 JUL 06 by Kim Rupert
Pat Austin is a modern shrub rose which does bloom on old and new wood. It's pretty much like a floppier Hybrid Tea, or shorter climber. In Southern California, it grows like a pillar rose, a shorter climber. You may prune it harder to keep it more bushy, or you may train it like a climber, shortening the laterals it produces as you would any other climber. Usually, here, the larger you allow it to grow, the more bloom you will have.
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Reply #3 of 3 posted 9 JUN 17 by mamabotanica
Excellent help! I recently planted a Pat Austin in a spot best for a tall narrow rose so I'll head her in that direction.
Thanks!
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Reply #2 of 3 posted 25 JUL 06 by Wendy C

Pat Austin is a delightful shrub. It stays rather small for me. 2.5' x 2'.  You can prune it the same you would a Floribunda. Take the spray stem to the next sound leaf set when it is spent.  My Pat Austin is blooming in triple digit heat. The blooms are small, but that it's blooming in this heat is amazing.


Hope you enjoy your Pat Austin

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